My night at the James Beard Awards

What it was like to attend the Oscars of food. 🌶️🍷🍕🌭🧀🌽🥑🍫🍪

Yesterday, the food world lost a legend. I never had the chance to meet Anne Burrell, but I can’t begin to count the number of times I watched her on Food Network—from Worst Cooks in America to Chopped—mesmerized by that signature spiky hair and endlessly entertained by her fiery takes. Rest in peace, Chef. Big love to all who knew her.

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“It’s my first time at the Beards. What do I need to know?”

On Monday, that was the question I asked everyone from Danny Meyer to Gail Simmons. It was indeed my inaugural experience at food’s biggest night, and I soaked up every last pinch-me moment.

My night actually began in broad daylight, around 3 o’clock, when media gathered on the red carpet to prepare for the chefs, pastry chefs, restaurateurs, bartenders, bakers, sommeliers, authors, TV personalities, and tastemakers.

Between 3:30 and 6, I spoke with as many food people as I could. From some, I heard about the best things they ate in Chicago over the weekend. (For the team behind Super Secret Ice Cream in New Hampshire, nominated for Outstanding Bakery, it was a Chicago-style tie between a classic hot dog and the deconstructed gel version at Alinea.)

Others told me what they were most proud of coming into the night. (Sarah Thompson, executive chef of Casa Playa in Las Vegas and a nominee for Best Chef: Southwest, nodded to the hard work of her team.)

I even asked Zack Walters, chef / co-owner of Sedalia's Seafood & Oysters in Oklahoma City and a nominee for Best Chef: Southwest, if he was watching the Thunder game that night. “Oh, yeah,” he said. “I have a jersey on underneath the tux.”

The carpet was electric, and even though I couldn’t feel my feet by the end of it, I had the time of my life. Cue the Dirty Dancing background music. For any future first-timers, here’s the best advice I received on navigating the James Beard Awards:

Adam Richman, TV personality and former host of Man v. Food: “Let it wash over you. There are so many things happening, but listen for the stuff that echoes with you.” He also said, “Wear comfortable shoes.” Oops.

Amanda Shulman, chef / owner of Her Place Supper Club and My Loup in Philadelphia: “The after party’s delicious and there’s still time to go to Au Cheval before it closes.” Noted for next time…

Andrew Zimmern, chef and writer: “Say hello to everybody. Anybody who’s a nominee, try to talk to them or take a picture.” One thing I loved about the night: people really did want to talk.

Danny Meyer, founder of Union Square Hospitality Group and Shake Shack: “My first time at the Beards was 35 years ago, the very first, and we didn’t really know what these awards meant yet. Rick Bayless won that year, and I said, this is pretty cool, hopefully one day we’ll win one of these.” And that’s on manifesting (with a whole lot of hard work).

Erick Williams, chef / owner of Virtue in Chicago: “It’s going to be an amazing evening. There are some contestants that are emerging and out of this world.” So much of the night’s magic was in meeting the industry’s rising stars.

Gail Simmons, writer and Top Chef judge: “Hydrate, put snacks in your purse, and bring your pom-poms to cheer for everyone.” The press room was BUZZING with applause.

Julia Momosé, chef / creative director of Kumiko in Chicago: “Connect with as many people as you can. My goal is to use words other than busy to describe how I’ve been recently and actually try to find a way to connect with people on a more meaningful level.” Kumiko won the Beard for Outstanding Bar. I found myself thinking about Julia’s words all night.

Nina Compton, chef / owner of Compère Lapin in New Orleans: “Have fun and talk to your favorite chefs.” Check! Bonus points when we have the same name.

Sherry Yard, pastry chef, baker, and cookbook author: “Bring a little sweetness to the red carpet.” Eating one of Sherry’s “OMG Cookies,” straight from a box on the red carpet, was a major highlight.

After the carpet, I headed into the press room where I received more great advice from Kate Heddings, my Beards fairy godmother. Kate worked at Food & Wine for many years before I got there, and although we didn’t cross paths at the magazine, I’ve come to know and love her in the time since. “Don’t be afraid to go up to people with medals and congratulate them, even if they may seem intimating or famous,” Kate said to me. “Take pictures and have fun.”

In the press room, as I channeled Trent Crimm, The Independent, I reconnected with a few other former F&W colleagues: Mary-Frances Heck, Justin Chapple, and Chandra Ram. They’d all been to the Beards many many many times before, so as the new kid on the block, I was grateful for their guidance amidst the celebration of culture, creativity, and community.

Part of celebrating the restaurant community meant acknowledging that immigrants have always been the backbone of the industry—its heart and its soul. Arjav Ezekiel, of Birdie's in Austin, winner of the first-ever James Beard Award for Outstanding Professional in Beverage Service, got up on stage and said, “I remember feeling like the walls could close in at any minute when I was undocumented. No goal or dream was without an extra roadblock of some kind.” When the music came on, signaling that his time was up, Ezekiel said, “Guys, I’m finishing this speech.” The crowd cheered, and Ezekiel went on to talk about how he fell in love with restaurants at a time when they were the only places willing to give him a chance.

After the ceremony and the official after party at Union Station, I went to an after after party at Maxwells Trading. We ate slices of Pizz’amici tavern-style as Rick Bayless poured orange wine, and I kept thinking about the acceptance speech chefs Lee Hanson and Riad Nasr, of Frenchette, Le Rock, and Le Veau d’Or in New York City, gave for Outstanding Restaurateur.

One of my early Food & Wine bylines, back in 2018, was all about the Gnocchi Parisienne at Frenchette. I had to taste the dish in order to write the piece, so I went to Frenchette, sat alone at the bar, and had an order of the gnocchi along with a baguette, really good butter, and a glass of chilled red. Although I didn’t have a corporate card yet, that was the first time I got to expense something for a story.

In his speech, Hanson said, “My career is flashing through my mind right now.” I felt a shade of that at the Beards, brushing elbows with culinary legends and rising stars. When I started in food media, fresh out of journalism school at age 23, I was just so excited to be there. On Monday night, I tapped back into that sense of joy and wonder thanks to the kindness and generosity of everyone in the room.

My first meal at Frenchette, June 2018.

Huge congratulations to all of the 2025 James Beard Award nominees and winners. It was an honor to celebrate with you all.